Returning from Geneva in April 2012 after collecting a friend from the airport, I took the slow road that passes around the dramatic peak between the villages of Labalme and Cerdon. You can't really call it the scenic route because the alternative motorway (the Autoroute des Titans) which soars over viaducts and dives in and out of the Alps is equally spectacular, but here in the corner of the valley is the Monument des Maquis de l'Ain, commemorating the French wartime resistance members from the nearby village. The inscription reads 'Où je meurs renait la patrie'.